Captain James Cook The Journal of Captain Cook aboard the HMB Endeavour The "Open Bay" that Cook writes of on the second day is now Bateman Bay, New South Wales, Australia.  On the 6th May 1770, while anchored in Botany Bay, Cook mentions "a small bare island" which is now called Bare Island

Selected excerpts, editing out just the navigational notes The discovery of Australia in Captain Cook's own words: January 1770 THURSDAY, 19th. In the P.M. had fresh Gales at South-South-West and Cloudy Squally weather, with a large Southerly Sea; at 6 took in the Topsails, and at 1 A.M. brought too and Sounded, but had no ground with 130 fathoms of line.  At 5, set the Topsails close reef'd, and 6, saw land extending from North-East to West, distance 5 or 6 Leagues, having 80 fathoms, fine sandy bottom.  We continued standing to the Westward with the Wind at South-South-West until 8, at which time we got Topgallant Yards a Cross, made all sail, and bore away along shore North-East for the Eastermost land we had in sight, being at this time in the ... I have named it Point Hicks, because Lieutenant Hicks was the first who discover'd this Land. To the Southward of this point we could see no land, and yet it was clear in that Quarter, and by our Longitude compared with that of Tasman's, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to have bore due South from us, and from the soon falling of the Sea after the wind abated I had reason to think it did; but as we did not see it, and finding the Coast to trend North-East and South-West, or rather more to the Westward, makes me doubtfull whether they are one land or no.  However, every one who compares this Journal with that of Tasman's will be as good a judge as I am; but it is necessary to observe that I do not take the Situation of Vandiemen's from the Printed Charts, but from the extract of Tasman's Journal, published by Dirk Rembrantse. Chase Speculaas aboard HMB Endeavour Saturday, 21st. Winds Southerly, a gentle breeze, and clear weather, with which we coasted along shore to the Northward. In the P.M. we saw the smoke of fire in several places; a certain sign that the Country is inhabited. ... At 6, we were abreast of a pretty high Mountain laying near the shore, which, on account of its figure, I named Mount Dromedary .. The shore under the foot of the Mountain forms a point, which I have named Cape Dromedary, over which is a peaked hillock.... An Open Bay wherein lay 3 or 4 small Islands.... This Bay seem'd to be but very little shelter'd from the sea winds, and yet it is the only likely anchoring place I have yet seen upon the Coast. Sunday, 22nd. .. Saw the smoke of fire in several places near the Sea beach. At 5, we were abreast of a point of land which, on account of its perpendicular Clifts, I call'd Point Upright; .... After this we steer'd along shore North-North-East, having a Gentle breeze at South-West, and were so near the Shore as to distinguish several people upon the Sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black colour; but whether this was the real Colour of their skins or the clothes they might have on I know not. ... A remarkable peak'd hill laying inland, the top of which looked like a Pigeon house, and occasioned my giving it that name, .... When we first discover'd this Island in the morning I was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found shelter for the Ship behind it; but when we came to approach it near I did not think that there was even security for a Boat to land. But this, I believe, I should have attempted had not the wind come on Shore, after which I did not think it safe to send a Boat from the Ship, as we had a large hollow Sea from the South-East rowling in upon the land, which beat every where very high upon the Shore; and this we have had ever since we came upon the Coast. The land near the Sea coast still continues of a moderate height, forming alternately rocky points and sandy beaches; but inland, between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon house, are several pretty high Mountains, 2 only of which we saw but what were covered with trees, and these lay inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat a top, with steep rocky cliffs all round them. As far as we could see the trees in this Country hath all the appearance of being stout and lofty. Wednesday, 25th. ... In the Course of this day's run we saw the Smoke of fire in several places near the Sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the Northward of Cape St. George the Shore seems to form a bay, (Ed: Jervis Bay) which appear'd to be shelter'd from the North-East winds; but as we had the wind it was not in my power to look into it, and the appearance was not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it. The North point of this bay, on account of its Figure, I nam'd Long Nose. ...8 Leagues to the Northward of this, is a point which I call'd Red Point; some part of the Land about it appeared of that colour. A little way inland to the North-West of this point is a round hill, the top of which look'd like the Crown of a Hatt. Chase Speculaas aboard HMB Endeavour May 1770 Friday, 4th. Winds northerly, serene weather. Upon my return to the Ship in the evening I found that none of the Natives had appear'd near the watering place, but about 20 of them had been fishing in their canoes at no great distance from us. In the A.M., as the Wind would not permit us to sail, I sent out some parties into the Country to try to form some connections with the Natives. One of the Midshipmen met with a very old man and woman and 2 small children; they were close to the water side, where several more were in their canoes gathering of shell fish, and he, being alone, was afraid to make any stay with the 2 old People least he should be discovr'd by those in the canoes. He gave them a bird he had shott, which they would not touch; neither did they speak one word, but seem'd to be much frightned. They were quite Naked; even the Woman had nothing to cover her nudities. Dr. Monkhouse and another Man being in the Woods, not far from the watering place, discover'd 6 more of the Natives, who at first seem'd to wait his coming; but as he was going up to them he had a dart thrown at him out of a Tree, which narrowly escaped him. As soon as the fellow had thrown the dart he descended the Tree and made off, and with him all the rest, and these were all that were met with in the Course of this day. Saturday, 5th. In the P.M. I went with a party of Men over to the North Shore, and while some hands were hauling the Sean, a party of us made an Excursion of 3 or 4 Miles into the Country, or rather along the Sea Coast.... Upon our return to the Boat we found they had caught a great number of small fish, which the sailors call Leather Jackets on account of their having a very thick skin; they are known in the West Indies. ... Sunday, 6th. ...The great quantity of plants Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found in this place occasioned my giving it the Name of Botany Bay.... It is capacious, safe, and Commodious; it may be known by the land on the Sea Coast, which is of a pretty even and moderate height, Rather higher than it is inland, with steep rocky Clifts next the Sea, and looks like a long Island lying close under the Shore. The Entrance of the Bay lies about the Middle of this land. In coming from the Southward it is discover'd before you are abreast of it, which you cannot do in coming from the Northward; the entrance is little more than a Quarter of a Mile broad, and lies in West-North-West.  To sail into it keep the South shore on board until within a small bare Island, which lies close under the North Shore. ... but there I found very little fresh water. We Anchor'd near the South Shore .. the getting of fresh water; but I afterwards found a very fine stream of fresh water on the North shore in the first sandy Cove within the Island, before which the Ship might lay almost land locked, and wood for fuel may be got everywhere. Although wood is here in great plenty, yet there is very little variety; the biggest trees are as large or larger than our Oaks in England, and grows a good deal like them, and Yields a reddish Gum; the wood itself is heavy, hard, and black like Lignum Vitae. Another sort that grows tall and Strait something like Pines -- the wood of this is hard and ponderous, and something of the nature of America live Oak. These 2 are all the timber trees I met with; there are a few sorts of shrubs and several Palm Trees and Mangroves about the Head of the Harbour. The country is woody, low, and flat as far in as we could see, and I believe that the soil is in general sandy. In the Wood are a variety of very beautiful birds, such as cocatoos, lorryquets, parrots, etc., and crows exactly like those we have in England.   Water fowl is no less plenty about the head of the Harbour, where there is large flats of sand and mud, on which they seek their food; the most of these were unknown to us, one sort especially, which was black and white, and as large as a goose, but most like a pelican.   On the sand and mud banks are oysters, muscles, cockles, etc., which I believe are the chief support of the inhabitants, who go into Shoald Water with their little canoes and peck them out of the sand and mud with their hands, and sometimes roast and eat them in the canoe, having often a fire for that purpose, as I suppose, for I know no other it can be for.   The Natives do not appear to be numerous, neither do they seem to live in large bodies, but dispers'd in small parties along by the water side.  Those I saw were about as tall as Europeans, of a very dark brown colour, but not black, nor had they woolly, frizled hair, but black and lank like ours.   No sort of cloathing or ornaments were ever seen by any of us upon any one of them, or in or about any of their hutts; from which I conclude that they never wear any.   Some that we saw had their faces and bodies painted with a sort of white paint or pigment.   Altho' I have said that shell fish is their chief support, yet they catch other sorts of fish, some of which we found roasting on the fire the first time we landed; some of these they strike with gigs and others they catch with hook and line; we have seen them strike fish with gigs, and hooks and lines are found in their hutts. Sting rays, I believe, they do not eat, because I never saw the least remains of one near any of their hutts or fire places.   However, we could know but very little of their customs, as we never were able to form any connections with them; they had not so much as touch'd the things we had left in their hutts on purpose for them to take away.   During our stay in this Harbour I caused the English Colours to be display'd ashore every day, and an inscription to be cut out upon one of the trees near the watering place, setting forth the Ship's Name, date, etc.   Having seen everything this place afforded, we, at daylight in the morning, weigh'd with a light breeze at North-West, and put to Sea, and the wind soon after coming to the Southward we steer'd along shore North-North-East, and at Noon we were.. about 2 or 3 Miles from the land, and abreast of a Bay, wherein there appear'd to be safe anchorage, which I called Port Jackson. It lies 3 leagues to the Northward of Botany Bay.   I had almost forgot to mention that it is high water in this bay at the full and change of the moon about 8 o'clock, and rises and falls upon a perpendicular about 4 or 5 feet. Monday, 7th. ... Serene pleasant weather. ... some broken land that appear'd to form a bay ... This bay I named Broken Bay ... I took several azimuths .. Some pretty high land which projected out in 3 bluff points, and occasioned my calling it Cape 3 Points ... Tuesday, 8th. ... Clear weather. .. Wednesday, 9th. ... a fresh breeze, with which we stood off Shore... Thursday, 10th. .. Having the advantage of a light Moon, we made the best of our way along shore to the Northward. ..A small round rock or Island,... a little way inland, is a remarkable hill, that is shaped like the Crown of a Hatt .. (Ed note: Nobby Head, Newcastle) Friday, 11th. ..a gentle breeze and clear weather.. a low rocky point which I named Point Stephens ... In passing this bay at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the shore ... from which I conjectured that there must be a sufficient depth of water for shipping in the bay. We saw several smokes a little way in the country upon the flat land; by this I did suppose that there were lagoons which afforded subsistance for the Natives, such as shell-fish, etc., for we as yet know nothing else they have to live upon. .. run under an Easey sail all night .. ... this point I called Cape Hawke... Saturday, 12th. .. we saw several smokes a little way in land from the Sea, and one upon the top of a hill, which was the first we have seen upon elevated ground since we have been upon the coast. .. As these hills bore some resemblance to each other we called them the 3 Brothers. .. Our course and distance made good since yesterday noon ... several smokes seen a little way in land. Sunday, 13th. .. and a point or head land, on which were fires that caused a great quantity of smoke, which occasioned my giving it the name of Smokey Cape, .. Besides the smoke seen upon this cape we saw more in several places along the coast... Monday, 14th. ..it fell calm .... we made a trip in shore for an hour; after this the wind came off Shore, with which we stood along shore .. At 8 it began to thunder and rain, which lasted about an hour, and then fell calm ... after this we got the wind Southerly, a fresh breeze and fair weather, and we steer'd North by West for the Northermost land we had in sight. .. distance made good since yesterday... As I have not mentioned the aspect of the country since we left Botany Bay, I shall now describe it as it hath at different times appear'd to us. As we have advanced to the Northward the land hath increased in height, in so much that in this Latitude it may be called a hilly country; but between this and Botany Bay it is diversified with an agreeable variety of hills, ridges, and valleys, and large plains all cloathed with wood, which to all appearance is the same as I have before mentioned, as we could discover no visible alteration in the soil. Near the shore the land is in general low and sandy, except the points which are rocky, and over many of them are pretty high hills, which at first rising out of the water appear like a Island. Tuesday, 15th. Fresh gales ... some heavy squalls, attended with rain and hail .... some small rocky Islands ... having the advantage of a fresh gale and fair weather. ... we saw upon it people and smoke in several places ... A tolerable high point of land ...; this point I named Cape Byron.... It may be known by a remarkable sharp peaked mountain .... Wednesday, 16th. Winds Southerly, a fresh gale, ... we discover'd breakers ahead ... We now saw the breakers again within us, which we passed ... a small Island; their situation may always be found by the peaked mountain... I have named it Mount Warning.... Chase Speculaas aboard HMB Endeavour   At this point Captain Cook and the crew of Her Majesty's Bark Endeavour cross what is now the border of New South Wales and Queensland in Australia, so it is a good time to continue this epic story on other webpages...